Blue Lake jewels and the hidden garden of Umpherston Sinkhole

By National Travel

With its boundless volcanic landscapes, enchanted vineyards and vibrant ecosystem, South Australia’s Limestone Coast is a magical place to explore. Nestled in amongst a network of limestone caves, Mount Gambier is home to some of the most fascinating and beautiful attractions in the region. From dazzling crater lakes sheltering ancient marine fossils, to beautifully decorated sinkholes, Mount Gambier will inspire your curiosity and impress you with its creative charm. 

 

While exploring the outskirts of Mount Gambia, the luminous Blue Lake is an unmissable scene. Fringed by a volcanic crater of porous limestone and craggy shrubs, the Blue Lake’s pristine, clear water is a breathtaking sight. Thanks to geological aquifers that keep the deep water perfectly clear, the crater-lake supplies the town with both drinking water, and their most treasured natural jewel. A beautiful but mysterious landmark, the lake harbours many secrets. The stunning vibrant blue switches abruptly to steel grey in April, remaining this way until November each year when it transforms back to vivid blue just as suddenly.  Although likely caused by the impact of seasonal warmth on the lake’s mineral composition, scientists aren’t sure exactly why this phenomenon occurs.

 

Formed at a time of intense geo-thermal activity in the area, carbon dating has estimated the Blue Lake at around 5,000 years old. This makes the crater the remnants of Australia’s youngest volcano. Oral history from the Boandik people of the region share a story that suggests their ancestors actually witnessed the formation of the Blue Lake. Passed down through generations, the story mentions four fiery ovens, corresponding perhaps to the eruptions we know created the four famous craters in the area, of which the Blue Lake is the most magnificent.

 

With an abundance of birds and butterflies calling the Blue Lake surrounds home, a light hike around the crater track is a truly delightful experience, and a favourite way to take in the breathtaking views. Strolling along the rocky circuit, cicadas, fairy-wrens and fantails can be seen darting about. Another option is to pack a picnic or BBQ, passing the afternoon interacting with locals against the spectacular aqua backdrop. For the curious, there are also tours around the aquifer, providing the opportunity to travel in a glass-panelled lift down the original dolomite mine shaft, ending in a stunning close-up of the lake.

 

Blue Lake, South Astralia

While the Blue Lake is untouched nature at it’s finest, Mount Gambier’s Umpherston Sinkhole is a more creative type of beauty, but no less special. When a network of underground limestone caves collapsed around 1880 leaving a water-filled sinkhole, local icon James Umpherston took it upon himself to use the space to cultivate an abundant oasis-garden for the locals to appreciate. Umpherston reportedly ran scenic tours by boat, where locals relished in the opportunity to escape the summer heat and hide away in the enchanted garden.

After falling into disrepair for a number of decades, locals in the 1970s campaigned to recreate the magical oasis, eventually successfully restoring the sinkhole to its former manicured glory. It’s no longer home to a lake but instead boasts a perfectly landscaped lawn, with mossy grass-rimmed steps leading down to an ocean of agapanthus, hydrangeas, ferns and oyster plants. Cascades of ivy adorn the walls of the jagged limestone structure, making for a magnificent view when staring up from the garden floor. Hiding in a cocoon of plants 30 metres under the ground is a surreal experience, and hours easily fly by in this beautiful space.

As afternoon shade slowly envelopes the garden, and cool night air begins to settle, the wonderful garden continues to delight. Possums wake from their daytime slumber and playfully nibble on fruit as they dance through the hanging ivy. Eagerly interacting with visitors, the nocturnal animals are a lively part of the local ecosystem, and can be very amusing to watch. With tasteful lighting illuminating the sinkhole until very late, after dark is a wonderful time to continue exploring the enchanted garden, discovering its many hidden crevices and taking in new floral scents. Although Mount Gambier is home to a diverse collection of caves and sinkholes, the Umpherston hidden garden holds a special reverence for many locals as a place of community, revived history, and a deep appreciation of nature – a local treasure that simply must be experienced.

 
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